We have divided the North-West Zululand Birding Route into five different birding areas. Each birding area has its own unique character and set of special bird species. Within each area there is also a variety of accommodation options and birding sites to visit.
Melmoth
At the gateway to the Zulu highlands lies the picturesque town of Melmoth. Founded in 1888 as a "gold rush" town on a portion of the farm Golden Reef owned by Reinhold Ortlepp, it was named after Sir Melmoth Osborn, the resident commissioner of Zululand at that time. The town is situated 800m above sea level with an unsurpassed climate. The area offers good forest, riverine, thornveld and grassland birding with a species count of 295.
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Weni Farm |
For birders, numerous grassland and riverine birds can be seen, including Grassbird , Short-tailed Pipit, White-backed Night Heron, Shelley's Francolin, Black Stork , Half-collared Kingfisher, Southern Bald Ibis, Buff-streaked Chat, Blue Crane, Yellow- and Orange-throated Longclaws, Streaky- headed Canary, Violet-backed Starling, Southern Ground Hornbill, Mountain Wagtail, African Finfoot, Green Sandpiper, African Black Duck, Lanner Falcon, African Hawk-Eagle and numerous other raptors. Southern Bald Ibis, Black Storks and Southern Ground Hornbills all breed on the property. |
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SAPPI - Mooiplaas |
Mooiplaas consists of nine farms that were bought from private farmers and exchanged with companies in the late 1970's and early 1980's. The plantation is subdivided into 5 blocks, namely A - E. The total area of the plantation covers 10 980 hectares, of which 6 500 ha are planted to eucalyptus, wattle and pine. The remaining 4 480 ha consists of the 1 140 ha natural heritage site in block C, the 1 200 ha site of conservation significance in block D, and the remainder under valley bushveld. |
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Wintershoek Farm |
This well established cattle and timber farm has been in the Calverley family for four generations. It straddles the high and low veld providing access to grassland and thornveld birding. The farm has a panoramic view of Emakhosini, the "Valley of the Kings", stretching from Babanango in the west to Ulundi in the East! |
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Nkandla Forest |
This beautiful forest is run by KZN Wildlife, and no permit is required to visit it. Nkandla forest is situated about 30km south-west of Qudeni Forest, as the crow flies, and about 56km north-west of the town of Eshowe and 68km from Melmoth. |
Richard's Bay
Richards Bay is one of South Africa's top waterbird areas. The habitats are as diverse as from thornveld, Papyrus swamps, open freshwater lakes, Mangroves, Dune forest to mudflats, open sea and sandbanks. Richards Bay is the area for rarity sightings in Zululand with birds such as among others Crab Plover and Broadbilled Sandpiper being fairly regular every summer. Many forest birds such as Woodwards Batis and Eastern Nicator (Yellowspotted Nicator) reach their southernmost limit around here. Open lakes are home to scores of waterfowl as well as hippos and crocodiles. The entire area has been earmarked by BirdLife South Africa and BirdLife Zululand for major conservation and avi-tourism development - (link here to projects Richard Bay avitourism). Richards Bay also has the advantage of being Zululand's biggest and wealthiest city and can offer visitors to the area a range of first world accommodation, restaurants and other facilities all within very close proximity to excellent birding.
Richards Bay is often overlooked by tourists heading up the coast to the big Zululand Reserves such as Mkhuze and Hluhluwe. Understandable as most people have a image of huge mines and industry when thinking about Richards Bay. This is not totally inaccurate, but tucked away within and around all this industry is some of the best birding to be had in Zululand Over 350 species occur in the immediate Richards Bay area, 73% of South Africa's red data book species and 24 National Rarities have been recorded from here. Within Richards Bay is Thulasihleka Pan, probably the most reliable Lesser Jacanas in South Africa as well as enough variety of waterbirds to keep you busy for most of the morning, we are currently negotiating to erect a new hide on the pan and will keep birders informed of developments. The southern Sanctuary, (Important Bird Area SA079) and Harbour area has also long been a hotspot for rarities in South Africa such as Crab Plover and Broadbilled Sandpiper. According to Dave Allen from the Natural History Museum in Durban , this is some of the best waterbirding in Southern Africa ! Access to the harbour and Sanctuary area has up till now however always been a problem for birders coming from outside the region but now access and bird guides can be organized through the Zululand Birding Route. Less than an hours drive from Richard's Bay is South Africa's most exciting Forest Birding - Ongoye Forest with it's Green Barbet, Delegorges Pigeons, Green Twinspots, Green Coucals, Yellowstreaked Bulbuls as well as it's host of endemic plants.
Then there is Dlinza Forest and the Aerial Boardwalk, Spotted Thrush country of note ! Nseleni Nature Reserve is also a beautiful little reserve where boat trips can be arranged to see Whitebacked Night Neron and African Finfoot. Mtunzini is also only a short drive away and hosts Palmnut Vulture and in winter months Mangrove Kingfisher as well as many coastal forest species. Lake Pobane (Goedetrou Dam) between Richards Bay and Eshowe is an excellent haunt for Whitebacked Night Herons, African Finfoot, Halfcollared Kingfisher and good bushveld birds such as Gorgeous Bush Shrike. Up towards Melmoth in summer are the Short Tailed Pipit stakeouts as well as many upcountry specials and fantastic scenery. Then if you want, a short drive north takes you to the St Lucia wetlands, the big game of Hluhluwe Umfolozi, and the red hot birding of Mkhuze. In addition to all this Richards Bay and surrounding towns have fantastic selection of accommodation, from log cabins and camping sites in the dune forest to comfortable B&B's and Hotels as well as excellent restaurants and shopping facilities. If you are in the area and need information on birding anywhere in Zululand, please feel free to pop in. We are on the R 34 (main road between Empangeni and Richards Bay) at the Crocodile Sanctuary - look for the Birding Info signs – or contact us.
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Mzingazi / Sharks Board Area |
This large lake, which is the primary water supply of Richards Bay extending from the suburbs into the tribal area in a N.E. direction. There are no protected areas around its perimeter with the possible exception of the "proposed conservation area" stretching from the Sharks Board to Ferelli Alley along the lake edge and to the John Ross highway to the south. The forested areas comprise climax dune forest and, an area mainly described as "sand forest". The latter is a rare biome and requires confirmation regarding its supposed pristine nature. The lake edge is largely swamp forest, papyrus and phragmites reed beds with good views over the lake along the private road which connects Meerensee suburb with Arboretum. The lake drains through a small culvert at Ferelli Alley and becomes the Mzingazi river, which flows into the Ngodweni canal via a berm designed to prevent sea water access. |
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Richard's Bay Harbour |
The commercial part of the harbour, as distinct from the Southern Sanctuary, has several important bird areas. Those currently accessible to the general public include the Bay Hall, Pelican Island and "Cassurinas" area. The area attracts waders and terns but in much lower numbers than the past probably due to more intensive recreational use. The North Breakwaters provide limited capability for seabird watching but are not as good as the, currently inaccessible, South Breakwater. Of the areas currently open to the public the Cassuarinas / Sand Flats are the most productive. |
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Southern Sanctuary |
This important Bird Area (SA079) comprises the Umhlatuze Lagoon and sand banks to the south of the harbour berm wall extending east to the new mouth. Habitat comprises estuarine mud / sand banks and mangroves, the latter gradually encroaching on the sand banks. These banks comprise a most important roosting / feeding area for shorebirds and waders. |
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Thulasihleka Pan |
Thulasihleka Pan is one of Richard's Bay's most important waterbird areas, along with spots such as Southern Sanctuary. In the winter months flocks of hundreds of pelicans congregate here along with an unprecedented variety of waterfowl. |
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Enseleni Nature Reserve |
Enseleni Nature reserve consists of coastal grasslands and forest and the Nseleni river provides a freshwater habitat. There are two trails in the reserve, which offer fantastic scenery and the opportunity to experience different parts of the reserve and to spot a variety of birds and animals. The Nkonkoni trail is 7 km and the Mvubu trail is 2 km in length. |
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Empangeni - Grass for Africa and Dekker's Dam |
Both these sites are in close proximity to each other on the outskirts of Empangeni and offer some rather unique birding.
Dekkers dam consists of open water with dense reedbeds and a few areas of shallow flooded grassland. Grass for Africa is a commercial grass farm that has a reputation for producing some pretty unusual bird species. |
Mtunzini
Mtunzini, "place of shade," is a coastal town with a wealth of treasures for the birding or wildlife enthusiast. The town, situated on a hill overlooking the coastline, has pristine dune forest and an estuary lined with mangrove swamp forest.
Avenues of indigenous trees lining the streets of the village create corridors for wildlife movement and provide an excellent food source for birds. A striking feature of this area are the stands of Raphia palm (Raphia australis). Their fruits form an essential part of the diet of the Palmnut Vulture of which 3 to 5 pairs breed in Mtunzini. The best spot to see this species is at the Raphia palm monument, along the beach, or in the strips of forest along the drainage lines around the town.
A walk along the edge of the estuary, which also includes the mangrove forest, is good for African Finfoot, which may be flushed out into open water. During the winter months this is the best place to try and track down the elusive Mangrove Kingfisher. Walks in the coastal dune forest can be very productive and it is here that the Spotted Thrush can be located during the winter months. Mtunzini's warm climate and "holiday style" appearance make it an excellent place for some productive self-guided birding.
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Mtunzini |
Mtunzini "in the shade", is a coastal town with large open spaces/ parks and avenues of indigenous trees lining the streets of the Town. These, together with indigenous bush links create corridors, which allow for the movement of wildlife between the natural bush located within the agricultural lands, town and Umlalazi Reserve. The abundance of indigenous trees provides an excellent food source for birds. This allows for excellent birding opportunities within the town itself. The town situated on a hill overlooking the coastline, has pristine dune forest and an estuary lined with mangrove swamp forest. |
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Ongoye Forest Reserve |
The forest lies about 150km north of Durban, between Mtunzini, Eshowe and Empangeni. It is a large remnant patch of coastal forest, 3903 ha in extent and lies along a ridge of hills overlooking the Indian Ocean. This beautiful forest is interspersed with patches of rolling grasslands between granite outcrops. Ongoye Forest is the only place to see Woodwards' Barbet in southern Africa. |
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Theunissen's Dam |
This is a dam located on private property at which some 85 bird species have so far been recorded. Visitors should be cautioned that there are several crocodiles present in this dam and that visits here are entirely at one's own risk. |
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Amatikulu Nature Reserve |
This KZN Wildlife reserve is an ideal weekend getaway or just for a day visit from Durban, Eshowe, Mtunzini or Richards Bay. This reserve is small (2100 ha) and situated about 100km north of Durban. It is one of the few places in southern Africa where wildlife can be viewed feeding on forested dunes overlooking the sea. |
Eshowe
Eshowe is centrally positioned in an area surrounded by scarp forest and linked to other neighbouring forests by pockets of indigenous bush and grassland, which make it an excellent base for birding the Zululand forests.
Dlinza Forest, which is in the heart of Eshowe, hosts birds like the elusive Spotted Ground- Thrush which can be seen scratching for earthworms in the forest leaf litter, while above in the forest canopy Delegorgue's Pigeons can be heard throughout the summer months making their loud ascending then descending call. To the west of Eshowe at a higher elevation, is the Entumeni Nature Reserve, which has a forest superficially similar to Dlinza forest but hosting different birds like Yellow-streaked Bulbuls and African Broadbill which do not occur in Dlinza. A trail established by local cane growers meanders through farms and links the two reserves. This is the Prince Dabulamanzi Trail, named after one of the Zulu King Cetshwayo's great generals.
About 15 km north of Eshowe is Lake Phobane, nestled in a valley, which was once the heart of King Shaka's Kingdom. This is a unique birding area and because of the wide range of different habitats in close proximity, a great variety of bird species are to be found here.
Birding Sites
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Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk |
Unique in southern Africa, and exclusive to Eshowe, is the Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk. Built of natural timber, the boardwalk takes you 125m through the forest just below the canopy, which is 10m above the forest floor. The boardwalk itself is wheelchair friendly up to the steel observation tower, which is 20m high and unfortunately inaccessible to wheelchairs. |
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Prince Dabulamanzi Trail |
Situated in southern Zululand, near the town of Eshowe, are the beautiful indigenous forests around Entumeni. These forests consist almost entirely of coastal scarp forest with a few glades of grassland. Known for their birds, moths (home of the Miller's Tiger), butterflies and plants, the forests are also home to a number of mammal species. |
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Lake Phobane |
Lake Phobane is conveniently situated about 15km north of Eshowe. Lake Phobane (previously known as Goedertrouw Dam) is the second biggest dam in KwaZulu Natal and is fed by seven rivers of which four flow all year round. The dam is set in the Umhlatuze Valley with Mabelebele Mountains offering a spectacular backdrop for this beautiful dam. The habitats along the dam vary from dry acacia scrub to tall mixed woodland, riverine forest patches and mountainous areas with cliffs up to 100m high dropping into the water. |